Shigatse Tashilhumpo Monastery.

 

Having completed the kora on our previous trip we got up early to visit the interior of the monastery. It was a whopping 55 Yuan each (well just a fiver to you) perhaps the monks knew we hadn't cycled back to Shigatse!!
The monastery is a huge complex of temples, tombs, assembly halls, dormitories and courtyards linked by narrow winding alleyways.
As the seat of the Panchen Lama there are tombs for his previous incarnations, from the 4th to the 10th. Some of the tombs were desecrated during the cultural revolution but much of the complex is original including an atmospheric assembly hall which dates from the 15th century and the founding of the monastery.
Our "do it yourself" tour started with the chapel of Jampa (the future Buddha) containing the worlds largest golden statue gilded with over 300kg of gold and lots of precious stones. The seated figure is 26 metres tall and took 900 artists 14 years to complete after being commissioned in 1914 by the 9th Panchen Lama. It was a breath taking sight and a good warm up for what was to come. Each of the tombs contained equally impressive idols and jewel encrusted stupas. The tomb of the 4th Panchen Lama was an 11 metre silver and gold chorten dripping with coral, turquoise and precious stones. Unfortunately the charges for taking photographs ranged from 3 to 10 pounds, so we left it to the rich.
As we headed through corridors filled with religious artefacts monks chanted prayers, clashed cymbals and banged drums. In each of the chapels and rooms were pictures of the 9th, 10th and 11th Panchen Lamas. The 11th Panchen Lama is a young Chinese sponsored boy and second choice for the job as the original, chosen by the Dalai Lama, is still under house arrest in an undisclosed location (the 10th Panchen Lama aslo spent an uncomfortable while at the hands of Chinese jailers before agreeing to see things "their way" then later reverting back to the side of the Dalai Lama before returing to Tibet to die).
There were empty thrones in many of the rooms. The thrones having been used by past and present Lamas resembled big comfy cushions on raised platforms. The most impressive throne was in the oldest assembly hall set amongst rows of rounded wooden pillars aged by the passage of time. The entrance to this assembly hall was as impressive - a 500 year old timber door through metre deep stone walls, a much more solid sounding construction technique than a lot of the other walls which were bundles of twigs and mud though these had also weathered well.
As we walked back down towards the main gates of the monastery we passed a courtyard filled with young maroon clad monks shouting at each other. The monastic skill of debating is widely practised throughout Tibetan monasteries with small groups of monks arguing their corners and slapping their hands together to emphasise points. Although we had no idea what they were talking about it makes quite a sight and is presumably a good way for the young monks to let off some steam.

Visit border cycling for more information on guided cycle trips.