After the comforts of the Tibetan Farmers Adventure Hotel the 150km to Shigatse suddenly seemed manageable. We set off from town with a half dozen Tibetan breads, a pack of Tofu and confident legs.
Almost right out of Lahtse the road took us to the base of a hefty mountain pass, our notes reckoned we had 1000m of vertical work to do in just 14km. The pass looked a little lower to us so we raced up it as best as we could. A short descent down the other side and then relatively gradual inclines until the 75th kilometre.
We were running out of water and the fast average speeds were taking their toll. The computer on Jane's bike had packed in earlier in the day but by timing the gaps between kilometre markers it was possible to work out our speeds were over 30kph on the flat and just a little slower on the ups. We maintained these speeds to a little town where we stocked up on juice and water. From this town we had 60 km and one pass to go.
The landscape opened out into wider valleys and the head winds picked up, the going was getting harder. Chris adopted as low a position on his bike as possible in order to best cut through the wind but the average speeds had dropped. It looked as if it might turn out to be a long day.
Just as the road steepened a little a puck-puck-puck of a tractor could be heard behind us. Soon the Yak pelt laden vehicle over took us. Two Tibetan men were sat atop the pelts under a puppy dog emblazoned blanket. They beckoned or us to chase them. We hesitated, then we sprinted for the back of the tractor. Tucking into the slipstream of the tractor we were pulled along at quite a good speed and for very little effort. When our new Tibetan friends saw a change in the road ahead they would signal to us with their hands. When the road steepened to climb the second pass of the day we found hand holds amongst the pelts and strapping and were literally pelted up the hill. On and off we used the little tractor to our advantage for about 50km, all the way into Shigatse. It's very rare to find one of these tractors going as fast as us. On the whole we pass them on every bridge where they stop to bleed and refill their overheated radiators. A Chinese tractor is a very different beast to it's european counterpart, essentially it is just an engine, two wheels and long control handles leading to a trailer, it is also a great way to travel.


Visit border cycling for more information on guided cycle trips.