Pass, Camp, Pass, Camp, Pass, Camp, Pass, Camp, Pass! And all in order to get to Saga for a shower. The road didn't really improve though the nights were warmer, having travelled further East. The mornings however, were not and one day low cloud kept the temperatures well below freezing until noon.
The packet noodle diet has been supplemented by "Thuk-pa" (noodles - but in Tibetan) as we were able to stop in small villages for lunch. We found the valleys are becoming more inhabited the closer we get to Lhasa. Some of the villages now have wells and the small towns even have toilets (though few locals seem to grasp the concept).
We descended through Saga with anticipation of a warm bed and a hot shower at the Moon Star Hotel. Yes they had rooms, Yes they'd give us a discount but NO hot water due to frozen pipes...AAARGH! The room was so nice complete with heated blankets and a telly we couldn't resist. The town has intermittent power and we eventually did get a hot shower though the water is now only on between 8pm and midnight. Happy Days!

Visit border cycling for more information on guided cycle trips.